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Draping: The Complete Course

Draping—the art of using calico to design directly on a dress form—is an essential skill for fashion students. Starting with the basics of preparing the dress form and fabric, the book advances through pinning, trimming and clipping, and creating shape using darts and tucks, to adding volume using pleats and gathers, and handling complex curves. Advanced skills include how to use support elements and how to handle bias draping.

Each exercise and project is explained with step-by-step photographs and line drawings that bring to life the art of creating womenswear in three dimensions.

Instructional videos:

  • Tearing the Muslin (Calico)
  • Blocking the Muslin
  • Pressing the Muslin
  • Marking the Grainlines—Measure and Mark
  • Marking the Grainlines—Pick and Pull
  • Marking the Grainlines—Thread Tracing
  • Analyzing the Three Grainlines
  • Visualizing Volume
  • Aligning the Grainlines
  • Pinning Two Pieces of Muslin Together
  • Turning Up and Pinning the Hem
  • Pinning, Marking, and Turning Seams
  • Transferring the Toile to a Pattern
  • Trimming and Clipping
  • Side Bust Dart
  • Adding Ease and the Difference Between Fit Ease and Style Ease
  • Using Drape Tape
  • Marking the Drape
  • Truing the Drape
  • Truing the Pattern: Using the Right Tools
  • French Dart
  • Long Vertical Darts, Front and Back
  • Taping the Style Lines
  • Fitting the Dress
  • Creating Volume with Pleats and Tucks
  • Draping the Bias Circle Skirt
  • Turning Front Over Back
  • Draping the Sleeve
  • Draping the Convertible Collar
  • Sleeve and Armhole Curves, and Range of Lift
  • Draping the Crotch
  • Fitting the Pant (Trousers)
  • Draping with Knits
  • The Two-piece Sleeve
  • Draping Shaped Darts
  • Fitting on the Bias
  • Draping the Bias Cowl
  • Visualizing Fabrics
  • Adding Sections of Fabric
  • Turning the Seams of a Fitted Garment