My last full day in Japan - the challenge to make the most of every last second felt urgent, even when my health was not quite up to snuff. I still had not made my usual pilgrimage to Nippori, and that was at the top of my list. Shops in Nippori do not open until 10am, so my early-to-wake schedule gave me a quiet morning to do some computer work and have breakfast.

I know that for many fabric-obsessed shoppers traveling to Japan, Nippori Textile Town has earned the reputation of fabric mecca - a reputation well earned. For those hoping to make this trip, here are some tips and directions to get you there. Get your cash together (your credit cards are no good in Nippori), and travel to Nippori station from the Yamanote line; it is located at the northern end of the Yamanote loop. Head for the North Gate, and then for the East Exit. (This area just outside the station has undergone extensive construction in the past 2 years or so, and it may look quite different if you’ve visited in the past.)  You should see a McDonald’s (of course!) across the street as you exit the station. Turn right and walk about a block and a half. On your right you should see a fire station, and a Cozy Corner cafe across the street. Cross here and head down Nipporichuo-dori. If you keep your eyes peeled, you should see a Nippori Textile Town sign on the sidewalk, with a nice big arrow to let you know you’re headed in the right direction.

You will pass a Mos Burger and then cross Ogubashi-dori. Lemon, a great shop for inexpensive and cute baby and children’s items, will be on your right. The main Tomato shop will be up a few blocks on the left, with it’s ancillary shops all around (a drapery shop, a notions shop, a home decorator fabric shop, and a shop stocking fabrics primarily for garment sewing).

Tomato has also become quite famous for it’s overwhelming selection of fabrics, as well as it’s reasonable pricing. Each floor has a theme; I usually start at the top floor and work my way down. (As with most multi-level shops in Japan, you should pay for your purchases at each level.) Once you’ve hunted your way through Tomato, don’t forget there are other worthwhile shops in the neighborhood. Just across the street from the main Tomato shop is Tsukiyasu, which has a nice selection of fabrics not found at Tomato. There is also an exquisite button and bead shop about 2 blocks closer to the train station called L’Musée (other locations in Kichijoji and Ginza). Be careful here, some of their vintage buttons cost as much as $15USD each! Still, fun to look around. If you have the time, poke around the side streets and smaller shops - there is a lot here, and plenty of treasures to be uncovered.

Getting hungry? Most food is located closer to the station. However, there is an Italian restaurant and a small grocery store about 2 blocks farther up the street from Tomato, a lovely bakery right next to Tsukiyasu, several convenience stores, and the afore-mentioned Mos Burger. Mos Burger’s current craze is a cross-promotion with Mr. Donut, the MosDo!

If you happen to purchase more than you can possibly carry, take advantage of Japan’s convenient Takkyubin delivery service. Within Tokyo, it shouldn’t cost much more than $7-8USD to have quite a large package taken straight to your hotel room - usually by the next day. Be sure you have a card key, business card, or some other documentation from the hotel to give the delivery address to the folks at the shop.

After leaving Nippori, I headed to Shibuya to ogle at the mass of humanity that congregates here every day

and to snap a quick pick of sweet Hachikō

I also had some time to stop in at the Tokyu department store, which has a great Sanrio boutique on the children’s level. Last minute gifts? Check!

I headed back for the hotel to dump the loot and get ready for a dinner meeting. We headed for historic Shinbashi and a typical “salaryman’s” dinner at Andy’s Shinhinomoto. This is a great spot for folks who cannot read a kanji seafood menu because the owner, Andy, is a Brit. He gets his fish fresh every morning from Tsukiji Market, and he can help recommend the freshest and best dishes each day. We had a delicious dinner of sashimi, fish foie gras, perfectly prepared asparagus, conch, sea eel tempura, and a plate of tiny crabs designed to be popped into your mouth whole - crunch!

We made a second stop at a smoky spot specializing in yakitori and other grilled delicacies. We snacked on dried, smoked squid, which was very chewy, but delicious - surely this must be jerky of the sea?!?

My last day was a success, and I was now looking forward to getting home to my family. The bizarre time travel of crossing the International Date Line reminded me that I would be gifted 2 Sundays this week - a long, cramped one on the airplane, and an exhausted, but happy one at home.

This entry was posted on Sunday, May 31st, 2009 at 9:58 pm and is filed under Travel & Shows. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.